RELEASE 2026

Commented by Master Sommelier Jonathan Gouveia

Perhaps Jacob's best vintage to date?

I have followed the wines from Klitgaard for a few years, and at the same time physically witnessed the transformation in the vineyards, or should I call it the backyard, including the establishment of the new winery. I would not dare to claim that I am an expert in the Danish wine country, but I have seen my share of Danish vineyards, and it was quite clear to me when I tasted Jacob's wines for the first time, that something completely unique happened in a backyard on Funen.

Since the formative years, the wines have taken a few twists and turns in the flavor profile, but with a very clear ideology and common thread. It is quite clear to me that Jacobs feels more and more drawn to the natural wine universe, which suits his wines nicely, as the vineyard work is very meticulous.

There has been a great urge for experimentation, which has been possible due to the small commercial scale of the winery, which is also my impression that it has built the foundation for the current profile.

ABSENCE 2024

Absence, which is previously named "Solaris Nature", has been a wine that has had a varying flavor profile, especially because Solaris is a grape that is hugely shaped by the vintage's growing season when we talk about pH value, acidity and alcohol.

The 2024 edition moves on the tightrope between the reductive and oxidative. It is clear that work has been done with yeast residues, as well as maceration, which is reflected in a textural mouthfeel and salty finish. The otherwise relatively aromatic variant is more toned down and angular.

It is quite clear that the harvest yield is low, as the wine hangs for a long time, and is relatively intense and complex, but at the same time in a really nice balance. When I sit with the last sip, my thoughts wander to Saumur or even mountainous limestone wines such as Jacquere or Savagnin.

With this vintage, Jacob cements that he is moving more and more towards a wine to be worked with, both in terms of aging and food with Absence, and further and further from the otherwise relatively simple expression that Solaris often gives.

INFUSION 2024

Infusion is a new wine in the lineup, and whether there will be a permanent fixture is quite interesting to follow.

It quickly gives the impression of being Jacob's most naturally produced wine, and first thoughts take me towards the wines from Sasa Radikon, with a noticeable nuance of volatile acidity and oxidative elements. The fruit profile is very orange with Mediterranean herbs, maybe that's why I dream of Friuli. Absence in 2024 is also characterized by VA, depending on how receptive you are, but in Infusion it is definitely part of the wine's character.

As for the flavor profile, Infusion undoubtedly belongs in the same universe as Friuli, but one could also draw parallels to the progressive wines from Roussillon, however, this is certainly not an Eastern European style of skin-macerated wine. The backbone is present in the wine, but without being coarse or bitter, and it ends refreshingly with the desire for another sip!

BLANC DE BLANCS 2021

I am especially fond of the direction Jacob is moving with his sparkling wines, as they are becoming more and more complex and less fruit-driven. Blanc de Blanc is 100% Solaris and is bottled for 42 months, with 8 months in tank & cask beforehand. The relatively long aging on the lees is quite nicely built into the wine, which is most likely a result of good fruit quality.

Here we can really talk about a charming reduction, which is lifted up by the bubbles, wrapped in stone fruits and orange blossoms. The acidity here is really vertical and crunchy, and like Absence, it finishes relatively phenolic and salty.

Personally, I feel that some manufacturers who work with "Zero dosage" prioritize ideology over balance, but here I don't miss the extra grams of sugar.

2022 ASSEMBLAGE

Assemblage is the wine in the new release that is most shy. Like Infusion, it gives me feelings of Mediterranean herbs, I wonder if it's Ortega?

The nose is a little shy, but at the same time seems like the most "leesy" and malolactic characterized wine of the four. At the same time, it also gives me associations of Côte de Blanc, with oyster shells and sour milk products, although Solaris' peach and gooseberry aromas still just stick my nose out and say hello.

Like the other wines, Assemblage ends with a phenolic bite, but a more soft and round acidity profile than Blanc de Blancs. If I had to choose, I would drink Blanc de Blancs by now, which is hugely inviting and crunchy, and hide Assemblage in my cellar for a few more years.